It is a well know fact that whenever you plan a trip, a lot of people will say, “Main bhai chalunga” (I'll also come). But as the date approaches, we get reduced to the number of people who really want to go there from the start. Being in Mumbai/Navi Mumbai has it perks of having a lot of nearby destinations like Bhimashankar, Matheran, Mahabaleshwar, Lavasa, etc that are 4-5 hrs away from “Panvel” (Panvel, Navi Mumbai itself is about 2 Hrs from Mumbai). But Spiti was our first that was a week long (and before this, Dehradun+ Massoorie+ Hrishikesh and Humpi+Pattadakal+Bijapur were short (3 days each) trips we had done. So, we were quite excited about the trip. Anyway, our trip also started in the same manner. At the time of Holi, 2018 we spread the news in our group to raise interest towards this trip and yes, like always….. a lot of us said “Main bhai chalunga, dates batao, chhutti le lunga, bhai bike se chalenge, etc etc.
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| (View from Chandrataal Lake, Spiti) |
At the end, only four of use remained in the “Going” list. I, along with Ratnesh Tiwari, Haldhar Singh and Deepak Prakash. Deepak had been to Ladakh earlier and this idea of Spiti Trip was also conceived by him. So, he was kind of incharge of the trip. He was aware of the do’s/don’ts, what to bring what not to bring etc. We decided the trip would be a fortnight long starting from 23 June 2018 till 8 July 2018. The first week was for Spiti Valley and the latter was undecided, it was left for consideration at the end of first week of the trip because Haldhar had to head back to Mumbai after 1st Week.
We booked our Mumbai-Dehi return tickets accordingly in May only to avoid last moment rush. Booked Delhi to Delhi Ford Figo (zoomcar.com) for the entire period of 15 days. Downloaded offline google maps of the region. The car had great features of Front and Rear Wipers, it was handy.
We had a provisional itinerary subject to change of whether, road condition, time, driving fatigue and mood. We four people have known each other for more than 10 years now, hence it became easier making a mutual decision, and chances of conflict of interest were very less. This made the trip quite more exciting.
We made a resolution that we won’t be driving in the night in the Valley, although again, it would be lame to drive in Spiti during the night time because there is no specific destination in Spiti, there are just halts. Whole Spiti Circuit is an experience and it is wise to reach to the halt point before night because of 2 reasons - Safety and Beautiful Sight.
Shimla > Sarahan > Chitkul > Dhankar > Mudh > Kaza > Chandrataal > Manali (Haldhar was to return from this point via Delhi)
(#Budget will follow at conclusion.)
We took 22 June Late night flight for Delhi and landed at around 0030 Hrs on 23rd. Our zoomcar was supposed to be at the airport by 0200 Hrs but they brought it by 0300 Hrs. We also had trouble finding the spot where they were to hand over the car. For the sake of record, we inspected and recorded the condition of the car in presence of the person who brought it over. Anyway, we set belongings in the car and started at around 0330 Hrs. I and Deepak had more exposure of driving, although at this moment, I took the keys and started. Since none of us had slept, our initial plan was to make halt at Chandigarh and get some rest there. By the time we reached Chandigarh, it was dawn. I don’t know how it popped into head of Deepak that we might even make it to Shimla in one go. I and Haldhar agreed, Ratnesh was asleep so we assumed that it was consensus. At 0600 Hrs. We made our first Tea break in Chandigarh. After a tea and bread butter, we resumed. Deepak was navigator and simultaneously looking after other arrangements like Hotel Bookings, deciding where we shall be eating, where to take fuel, etc. At that time, Deepak booked a 2 BHK OYO in Shimla. By 0730 Hrs, Himalayan Range was in sight.
Day 1: Shimla (It was painful) 23rd June 2018.
We entered Shimla at around 1030 Hrs. We were all tired and just needed a bed to sleep. It got irritating when we were near our OYO location and couldn’t find it. We had to park the car at 150 Mtrs distance. Somehow after a long chit chat over phone with OYO customer care and the Owner of the property, we managed to get into the flat. We slept for a couple of hours. We thought of exploring Shimla in the evening, and yet again, it got painful when we got stuck in hours of traffic while trying to go towards Mall Road. We gave up the idea of exploring Shimla and took a U-Turn, dined and headed back to the Flat and slept flat.
Day 2: Shimla to Sarahan (It just got interesting) 24 June 2018
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| (At Hatu Peak, Shimla) |
We left at around 1000 Hrs and first took blessings in Sankat Mochan Mandir in Shimla (This was the one and only place we visited in Shimla). It was mandated to buy some essentials in Shimla since the coming places were not so resourceful in terms of FMCG/Grocery. Next Destination was “Hatu Peak”, it is said that we can see whole Shimla from there. Well, we couldn’t! There is also a “Hatu Mata Mandir at that peak (3400 Mtrs height from Sea Level and Shimla is at about 2300 Mtrs above sea level). The Peak is about 70 Kms drive from Shimla, it took us around 3 hours to reach there (at 0200 Hrs). In the last 6 kms, we ascended around 1000 mtrs, it was steep, dangerous and crowded. It was worth it though, beautiful! We had our first sight of snowy mountains (at least 15-20 kms away), but we were happy. It was June and we were less hopeful to see such sight. Anyway, we shot a lot of pictures and left.
It was then, when we finally entered a valley. We were driving by Sutlej River, it was beautiful but hot (38 Degree Celsius). We couldn’t resist and made a halt by the river at 1600 Hrs. Sat there for like 30-40 mins and then resumed the journey, we crossed Rampur at 1730 Hrs and were almost there at Sarahan by 1900 Hrs when we found that the bridge has collapsed/being renovated and we may have to go around the mountain adding 17 kms drive. We noticed that car could not cross the bridge but we could and people were commuting by Bolero/Sumo from the other side of the bridge to Sarahan, it was just 6 Kms from there, the sky was clearer now, but it was getting dark. So we made a decision that for that night, we shall park the car by the bridge only (Other cars and buses were parked there as well) and commute by whatever is available at the other side. We shared a Bolero, to the lodge we had booked (Krishna Lodge). Anyway, we dined well there and thought of going for a walk, it was dark. My friends had “desi chicken” and were overwhelmed by the hospitality of the lodge. We thought of going out for walk, and were at 50 Mtrs from the lodge when we asked a shopper the way to “Bhimakali Mandir”. She warned saying ’Bhaalu (Bear) aayega Bhaalu”. We instantly returned to the lodged and rather sat on the terrance for like an hour. We decided that we shall visit the temple in the morning.
Day 3: Sarahan to Chitkul (It’s Cold) 25 June 2018
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| Bhimakali Mandir, Sarahan |
We got up in the morning at usual time. Packed our bags and checked out of the lodge. Since, we had to first visit the temple uphill, and retrace the route by the Lodge to the bridge where our car was parked, hence we left the bags at lodge. We left the lodge at 0900 Hrs, reached there at somewhat 0945 Hrs. Visited temple, took some photos, had a great breakfast in the canteen there. We then booked a Bolero for the bridge, collected our bags at the lodge, bid goodbyes and got back to the bridge where the car was parked. Car was dirty as hell, so it took some time to clear the screens. We had to retrace about 11 Kms of path. We started driving towards Chitkul. Sarahan is at 2100 Mtrs and Chitkul is at 3450 Mtrs above sea level. 65 Kms from Sarahan towards east is Karcham (Karcham Dam).
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| On our way to Chitkul |
Till Karcham, we were driving by Sutlej River. The road splits there, we took a right turn and started moving towards Chitkul. With every kilometre, the sky got clearer, the visibility was in miles with stunning beauty. It was 1430 Hrs, we were hungry, crossing Sangla (25 Kms from Karcham). It appeared to be a place having an ok type market. We dined there and resumed towards Chitkul. About 40 Kms from Karcham, driving by Baspa River we got to Chitkul at 1800 Hrs. It was sufficient light when we reached there, even witnessed a double rainbow.
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| Still going, Roads missing. |
It was surrounded by mountains all over. And we were overwhelmed while driving by the mountains that had snow over them (not on roads). Roads were fine till now, a small patch needed repair but it was fine. Although, we had a problem, we were out of mobile signal and we could not book any hotel in Chitkul, there was a Zostel, but it was already full that time. So we started exploring the Homestay options there. The population was very less there, so the options were limited too. We asked a lady there, if there is any room available. She agreed to let us stay there at a nominal rate. We took a look at the room, and figured that it should do, we were not left with many options anyway. The room was agreed upon, there was good light so we started exploring the area with the camera. 3 Kms Past Chitkul towards east is ITBP Post, India’s first line of defence. We touched the ITBP Post and sat by the River. The river collects water from the glaciers of nearby mountains, it was one loud river.
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| At ITBP, Chitkul |
We sat there from 1800 Hrs to 1845 Hrs, took some beautiful shots and made it back to the Lady’s home. We dined at a nearby canteen, my friends again had “Desi Chicken”, we had Rajma Chawal, etc. I believe, half of Chitkul was eating there. It was a nice gathering. People from many jobs, educational, geographical backgrounds were there, getting to know them was quite an experience. Deepak and Haldhar decided to go by the bank and sit for some time, I and Ratnesh were not up for it, we thought of going back to the aunty”s. Anyway, all of us came
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| (Haldhar, Ratnesh, Me, Deepak 😀) |
back to aunty's, Deepak and Haldhar came for Jacket. Aunty guessed that they were thinking of going to the river bank, she immediately warned us, “Raat me nadi ke paas mat jaana.” The idea was dropped and all got into beds. I woke up at around 0300 Hrs feeling suffocated. It was cold but that uncomfortable feeling was not because of it. Anyway, I took a Diamox tablet and after sometime, I was alright.
Day 4: Chitkul to Dhankar (230 kms drive) 26 June 2018
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| View from the point I stopped the car when Bus Driver failed to let us pass |
I got up at at around 0830 Hrs. The morning was extremely beautiful. I cleaned the car, simultaneously taking a time lapse video of the valley. Others got up at about 0900 Hrs. We had a nice meal at the same place we dined the previous day. We thought of touching the Dhankar that day, so left by 0945 Hrs. This time we had to retrace those 40 kms till Karcham. Post Karcham, we took a right turn and moved forward. This time, 12 Kms after Karcham, the road was pathetic, we could not drove over 20 kmph. The road was in patches, around an hour from Karcham we found an okay type road. Took a tea break at Powari, got the tyres of the car checked up there. Then again got back on road, crossed the Shongtong Bridge and drove by the bank of Sutlej River. The Dhankar was still 180 kms away. We were to reach Pooh, Himachal, at around 1330 Hrs, we found that the road was blocked, BRO (Border Road Organisation) was in action there. The shooting stones issue was there, that was being looked after by them (BRO). It took about 2 Hrs to clear the roads. Although by then, a long trail of traffic had taken over the roads and it took another 30 mins to get by the traffic. Resumed again for Dhankar by 1600 Hrs. Took break and went up to Ancient Serkhang Monastery, the view was mesmerising. Stayed there for 15 mins, shot some photos then again got back on road. The view was getting beautiful with every coming km. By the time we were crossing Lapcha, a tea break was necessary.
The traffic was minimal, although when we resumed, a bus started tailgating us, it kept honking, I gave it pass and then I started tailgating it. Although, I think by that time, the driver had an ego boost and was not ready to let us pass. A risky pass on that road is never recommended, so we again made a halt randomly, we thought of letting the bus get out of sight then resume the journey. We sat there for about 10-15 mins again and then resumed at around 1800 Hrs, we were driving towards the sun that was setting in the valley before us. It was one beautiful sight, and again made a short halt and took some photos. By the time Dhankar Monastery was in our sight, it was already dark, we reached there by about 2000 Hrs. We were thinking of staying in the Monastery but we learned that we cannot stay in Monastery. We found a Monk there who was closing the monastery after prayer. He told us that there is a guest house nearby where Monks stay and Rooms are also available. The rent of the room was considerably low and the facility was great. We found power and geyser (which was not available in Chitkul). The view from the room was majestic. So, lot of ascending and descending frequently that day, lot of hair pin turns, unplanned halts (road blocks), an irritating bus driver - I was already tired, and felt like I might get sick. So I took medicines and went to bed. Others also took their place the it was called a day.
Day 5: Dhankar Trek and thereafter to Mudh Village (Most beautiful village we ever saw) 27 June 2018
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| Confluence: Pin River and Spiti River |
This day, we trekked to Dhankar Lake, we had heard it was beautiful and that’s why the halt. I was feeling quite better in the morning, we had a good breakfast. The chai we had there tasted different, we assumed that the milk used in the “Chai” is from Yak, and hence we made and decision of "no chai until further notice" was taken. Then again as usual the car screens were cleaned. The lake was about 3.5-4 kms from the monastery, and altitude elevation was about 400 mtrs from there. We started around 1000 Hrs & it was quite a trek in an environment which is short of oxygen at that altitude. Deepak was quite fast to reach there, Haldhar was not that far behind him, and I & Ratnesh were the slow ones. Every 200-300 mtrs we were asking the people coming downhill that how far is the lake, and every time they answered 2.5 kms. Once we reached (at 1130 Hrs), to be frank, we didn’t find it that amusing, let’s just say we “checked” it in our itinerary.
The
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| Dhankar Monastery |
place might be astonishing at the time of winter when the place is covered in snow but not worth it visiting other times. Well! We were there anyway so we sat there to gain our breath and viewing distant mountains by a binocular. And again we started back for the Monastery at 1315 Hrs and reached there by 1400 Hrs. We then had lunch there only and got back on road in our car at around 1445 Hrs. This time we had to reach Mudh Village. The Village was on the valley, opposite to the Dhankar Monastery but we had to cross the Sipti river. So we drove along the river and crossed it at at the first bridge took a left and again drove by the river.
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| Towards Mudh, Pin Valley |
It was Pin Valley this time and it was one beautiful valley. It had all the shades of colours and it felt like it has been painted new. The valley was green and white. Snow was not on the road but on top of the mountains. We were driving by Pin river then. Roads were not in very good condition and shooting stones were a problem. Anyway, we reached Mudh at 1700 Hrs. Booked 2 rooms in Ibex Hotel there that were just alright considering the rent. We went out for a walk since it was quite beautiful outside and light was still there. Clouds, River and Snow everything was there. The population of the village is approximately 30. The village was catering more number of outside people than the population of the village itself. The last hotel was Pin Parvati Hotel that was serving Tea and Maggie. He sat there for some time, shot some pics, had snacks and when it got dark, we returned back to the hotel. The snacks were just enough so we didn’t dine that night. That was it that day.
Day 6: Mudh to Kaza (Motherboard of Spiti) 28 June 2018 Thursday
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| Bridge over Pin River |
We woke up at about 1000 Hrs, had breakfast at the same place. Left for Kaza by 1100 Hrs. Drove by the same route, and it was a total 50 Kms drive from Mudh, we reached there by 1230 Hrs. Found a petrol pump there, this was the first after Chitkul. Chandrataal was in our plan, and we had heard that the route was that good, especially when we were driving a hatchback. So Deepak talked to the fuel station guy, he straight forward said, “ye car to nahi jayegi”. Anyway, again we got our tank full. Next fuel station was at Manali. Anyway, we booked 2 rooms in a hotel nearby. Right before us was Shakya Monastery, we had fine lunch there. It was a rare place in that valley that had wifi. However, it was not working properly, apparently in such places, staying out of signal is considered to be “cool”. Got back to the hotel. Plan for next day was to visit Hikkim, Kibber, Langza and then drive to Losar. Haldhar was to leave the next day for Manali and then to Delhi-Mumbai. However, 3 of us talked himinto extending his plan to visit Chandratal-Manali-Kasol.
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| View from the Window of our Room |
He was quite convinced that once he was there, it was worth to cover at least Chandrataal. So a lot of calls were made regarding cancellation of tkts, booking of new tkts, extension of leave in office, etc. Finally it was settled that Haldhar shall be part of trip for 3 more days. We played cards in the evening, again had dinner in the monastery and got back to bed.
Day 7: Kaza-Langza-Komic-Kibber-Hikkim-Losar (World’s highest post office) Friday 29 June 2018
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| UC Bhai, and his hospitality |
After waking up at 0900 Hrs, we got ready, had a heavy breakfast downstairs. We had to arrange a camp in Chandrataal. We were worried about the route, and it was also a concern that we may have to retrace the whole reoute back to Shimla if we find an obstruction en route. Anyway, we asked the restaurant owner if he know any such person who can arrange for such camp. He gave us number of a person called UC bhai in Kaza. Who, when called, asked us to visit him by 1100 Hrs. It was around 3 kms from our stay. We checked out finally and drove to meet UC Bhai. He was a humble person having quite a place of living over there. He told us a lot about Kaza and Spiti. The type of trips and activities he organises in the place. He also invited us to visit the place during winter, told us that he would teach us skiing and other snow sports. There was an awesome tripod lying there, I was impressed, asked him about it where he told us that it is a gift from the photographer Navneet Unnikrishnan. He then showed us the pics of the milky way in his iPhone. The pics were beautiful, he told us that the pics have been shot by his iphone only and when it’s enough darkness and correct time, one can see the milky way by his bare eyes. It was pretty impressive, although we knew we might not be able to get that sight during out trip. We also asked him about the route to the Chandrataal. He informed that the route has been recently rejuvenated, we went their just two days back to get the supplies for the occupants there in camps. He said that he went there by Swift, and told us that if the clearance of Figo is more than Swift then there should not be an issue. He also gave us some tips and tricks for the route as it indeed was tricky afterwards, you’ll know when we get there.
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| No Caption Required |
After making advance for the booking of camp (remaining was to be given to his brother in Chandrataal only) and bidding him goodbye, we left for visiting Hikkim, where the highest post office in the world is. We made an ascend on the mountain on our right making U-Turns. The Langza village was in the route, 16 kms from Kaza, so first we went there, a large Buddha Statue is there in the land. The statue was surrounded by mountains- snowy mountains. The green yellow and white colour at the first floor covered by a cobalt blue coloured sky. The visibility was the maximum ever, we could see the farthest mountains. There were many people visiting the place, monks offering prayers. It was a quite place in an open sky, the only thing making noise there was the air. After admiring the beauty of the place and taking some wonderful shots, we left for Hikkim.
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| Komic, Photograph Point |
Again we found a village called Komic, that as claimed, is the highest village of the world connected by a motorable road. We sat there for some time, the valley was looking very beautiful from above. Deepak and Haldhar had some special masala tea. Later found that our GoPro installed on front screen of our car was left on, and it was recording on time lapse mode. We were short of space and after every memory full message, we had to transfer the videos and pics to Deepak’s iphone. Anyway, next was the post office, where we reached in 15-20 mins from Komic. Again shot some pics and sent some post cards to the near and dear ones from the post office. It was 1300 Hrs by then and we were hungry now. Anyway, Key Monastery was on our way so we thought that we shall have our lunch there.
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| World's highest Post Office, Hikkim |
Key was an hour drive/ 30 Kms away from Hikkim. We reached there by 1430 Hrs, and it was learnt that “khaane peene ko nahin milega kuchh idhar”. Anyway, the monastery was beautiful, some kids were playing volley ball there. Deepak being the champion among us joined them. We had chocolates and candies with us, offered the same to the kids. Well, it was fun! We entered the prayer hall, it was silent and vibrant. A lot of history was written there. We refrained from clicking pics inside the hall as it might not have been decent. After leaving the monastery, the first thing we wanted to do was to have lunch. Kibber was just 7 kms from Key, and it was just 15 mins drive.
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| Key Monastery, Spiti |
We were there by 1530 Hrs. The village was again very beautiful with the contrast of its own colour with the sky. When we got full there after having lunch and left for Losar. Losar was showing at some 40 Kms distance that could be travelled in 70-80 mins as shown in google maps. But last 12 Kms were not vary easy, the road was rough. Anyway, we reached there by 1730 Hrs. We were out of mobile signal, only thing we could do on mobile was navigation and playing songs. Plus, making online bookings was not possible there, so we had to look for stay in person. As soon as we entered Losar, we
took a right turn towards the river (the Losar is situated on the southern bank of Spiti River).
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| Kibber Villege, Spiti |
On the right, we saw some multi story homes, we presumed that either we shall find a hotel in them or pursue anyone to let us stay in their home for the night. Luckily, we found a hotel, he charged us enough for a big room for the accommodation of four. While checking in, I saw a spot where I wanted to go for taking pics of the mountains. I asked others if they wished to join, Ratnesh said he would rather rest. I along with Deepak and Haldhar went to the riverside. Sat there for some 30-40 mins, shot continuous pics on the camera and left for hotel again.
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Chicham Bridge (On way to Losar from Kibber)
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After reaching hotel, arrangement for dinner was to be done, so we went inside the village where we pursued a shop waala to make dinner for us. He was closing, but on hearing that there are 4 of us, he agreed. It took some time, but we got to have a nice dinner there. We again went back to hotel, put all our electronics on charge since, as the next day, it was Chandrataal.
Day 8: Chandrataal (It’s all worth it). Saturday 30 June 2018
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| The Camping Area, Chandrataal |
It was one the of few most exciting days of our lives, since a lot happened that day. The night was already chilling, but we had a cozy stay, had a goods dinner previous day, so it went by all good. Further, we got up in the morning, had a nice breakfast at the same place as before. Left for Chandrataal, we were not sure when we shall be hitting a good road. “Chandrataal is awesome” that all we have been hearing and on that basis, we made Haldhar extend his stay. Now it was time to check if it really was that awesome. So, we left Losar and there was just one road, no left no right. We just had to follow road. Right outside the Losar, there was a checkpoint, Police was there to make entries of the vehicles leaving by that road. We did the formalities and asked them about the route to Chandrataal.
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| That's me, by Chandrataal Lake |
They told us “Seedhe chale jao, 30 km baad right le lena”. Well, that was it, we started moving and there was absolutely no road to find. IT was all “kaccha” road. Despite our car being a fine hatchback (diesel and good clearance) we were not able to bring it up to to even 20 kmph. It was 1030 Hrs when we left Losar, and yes, it was around 50 kms that we had to cover. We were following what googlemaps was showing us but the road was getting harder to find with every passing mile. It was all worn down by ice and water flow. We had good company and songs to enjoy, the sight was breath taking, the sky was clearer, everything was fine except the road. And I’ll keep complaining for the next two days because I am driving here. Anyway, after some 20 kms we reached Kunzum Stupa by 1200 Hrs. We circuited around it by car as “rivaaz” and again got back on road. Immediately after it, we had to descend, there were a lot of hair pin turns there were traces of ice (not snow) on road.
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| View from the hill, by Chandrataal |
There were also outcrops there, we had to be careful. So, anyhow, after 17-18 turns were were down there, here we took the right as told before. Now, there was absolutely no road, even google maps couldn’t guide us. Although yes, we knew the route now and this right turn was taking us to Chandrataal. But the next 11-12 Kms to Chandrataal took us more than 2 hours (Do the math). Well, that was not enough, we were to face a “Dhaara” current. And we were to experience what UC Bhai in Kaza had told us. Well, this was the first dhara, and there were boulders on the road. Water was a relief (at least it was no ice or mud), we could see on what I had to drive through. After some efforts on Brakes and Accelerator, car made it to other side. By 1500 Hrs, we could see the camps, the Chandrataal was still above and it was a trek. Immediately before the camps, there was again a “Dhaara”.
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| Reminded me of Windows XP |
For this one I was told specifically to drive in from right side, but it was not a time to show over confidence so others left the car and were to meet me at the camp only since it was within sight now. Car made it in one go, and I reached the camp. 5 minutes later, others also joined. There were a lot of bikes especially Royal Enfield, and just two other cars. There were other camps as well, we were staying in UC Camp. Well, we unpacked what was necessary, checked into our Luxury Camp. We were hungry, and we had maggie packs, which we gave them to the cook. After having maggie, we had to go for trek to Chandrataal, since it was reachable by car, we started driving there. As stated before, there was no road, and just the tyre traces that we had to follow. It was a 15 min drive, but I think it was not more than 2 kms. We were already at an altitude of 4500 Mtrs.
The lake was at a 10 min walking distance from where we parked the car. That moment when we sighted the lake was beautiful, was one of the cleanest lakes we had ever seen. It had managed to stay clean despite a lot of people visiting it daily. It was surrounded by mountains from 2 sides. We first sat by the lake for an hour, listening songs and admiring the beauty of the sight. We decided to circle round the lake, and that moment, Ratnesh and Haldhar started by the periphery whereas I and Deepak walked over the hill.
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| The Camping Area, Chandrataal (Dusk) |
The visibility was astonishing, the distant snowy mountains appeared to be right next to us. We shot some beautiful captures, did some our own stunts there and then walked down where Ratnesh and Haldhar were. They were sitting as right opposite of the entrance of the lake. The colour of the nature was in its purest form there. The periphery of the lake might have been around 5 kms. It was the “Feel”. It was time to get back so we walked back to our car.
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| Another Side of the Valley |
We were at quite an altitude and it was cold too. It was getting dark, and breeze was getting more chilly with time. We had a nice dinner, they had an entire tent for dinner. Backside of the tent, they were cooking and in frontside, they were serving, so it was cozy in there. After dining, we went back to the tents, I took a diamox to avoid any breathing problem in the night and slept alright. Next day destination was Manali, and like this, our Spiti Circuit had come to an end.
Day 9: Enroute to Manali from Chandrataal. (A driver’s nightmare) Sunday 1 July 2018.
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| While returning from Chandrataal, towards Chacha Chachi's Dhaba. |
The night was alright, and we were in good health in the morning. The night before, it was concluded that the earlier we leave, the earlier we should make it to Manali avoiding the sunday traffic. Accordingly, we left by 0730 Hrs, and made it to Chacha-Chachi’s dhaba (in Batal) through that road yet no road and those 2 ”dhaaras”. We were hoping to find a road after Batal, but is was just a dream. The road was nowhere to find. Chandrataal to Manali is approximately 125 Kms. And we were hoping that even if we maintain a speed of 30, we should reach there by 1300 Hrs, it was hysterical. The road was only on the google maps, I don’t know what was that thing that we were driving our car on. Although, there was no traffic, a couple of cars with larger wheels and higher clearance over took us. Considering their speed, we were also doing alright. In a few mins, we were to face our greatest problem ever - “Chhoti Dhara”. We had seen the videos of even the SUV finding it difficult making it through the dhara. Although, we were told by UC Bhai that “pipes have been installed and the current is bypassing the road now, little current should be there, but nothing to worry about.” We were driving a hatchback, so we had to worry, our biggest concern was that we didn’t want to re-trace all Spiti Circuit back to Shimla in case our hatchback gets stuck somewhere and crossing the hurdle becomes impossible. Well anyway, we kept moving and stayed positive. Not for long though, we faced a couple of currents “dhaaras” and assumed that one if them might have been the “Chhoti Dhara”, we were so wrong. Every next current was stronger and difficult than the previous one. The car was somehow managing to pass them and every time others had to cross the current on foot. We did’t count but in total, the number of current we crossed that day was not less than 30. Road was already scarce, these dhaaras were cherry on the top. Anyway, after crossing 5-6 dhaaras and the chhoti dhara, we were relieved that this should be it, and then we encountered a big one, it must have been at least 150 feet in width. The flow was huge and it was not straight. All in all, after other getting out of the car, I had to see the sides and boulders that I have to drive over. Deepak was signalling me from the outside where to drive and what side to avoid. From the opposite side, a scorpio was entering the dhaara, and even they were having problems crossing it. Luckily after mutual cooperation, we crossed it. After every kilometer, there was a current. After this one dhaara, there was another obstacle, there was an immediate ascend of 7-8 feet followed by the immediate descend. It was all muddy rocks, skidding on the same was obvious, issue was every next rock was tough and we had to drive through rock by rock. Again by mutual cooperation and lot of burn out, that obstacle was also clear. Next dhaara was again amazing, a truck was stuck there, and a lot of vehicles were in line (50 mtrs) for the track to be clear. We also went to the scene, gave some inputs, others were also there. Immediately after the truck, there was an HPSRTC Bus, the driver, the conductor and all the passengers were also on the scene putting in the efforts. The flow was abrasive and eating away the road pebble by pebble. About 15 of us were made a team and started adding pebbles and rocks on the road. Once the road appeared to be drive-able enough, the truck cleared. But immediately after it, the bus got stuck! Again after the same practice, the bus also got cleared, then vehicle by vehicle got cleared. We were also part of that carvaan now. Chhatru was a place 40 Kms from Chandrataal, we were hoping to find a tarmac road after that. We were driving by Chenab River. At Chhatru, we crossed the river and started driving on the opposite bank now. The sight was beautiful but we were more worried about the route and the road was still the dream, even the hope of not finding any dhaara was shattered in a few minutes. At every incline turn on the mountain, there was a dhaara. Somehow crossing all of them, we reached Gramphu at around 1400 Hrs. Gramphu is a place where the route from Manali splits for Spiti and Leh. In short, we had travelled 60 Kms in last 6 hours. After Gramphu, there was road (in fragments). The it took an hour to reach Rohtang Pass, a lot of Army Trucks passed by and in addition there was a land slide before Rohtang, the road was not blocked but the traffic was little disturbed. Anyway, after Rohtang, it was proper road, in fact, there was a checkpoint before Manali (when entering from north) where they were stoping the returning vehicles. It was learnt that any vehicle crossing this point requires a permit, although we were coming this side for the first time and we had entered Spiti from Shimla side, we didn’t require the said permit. They let us go after learning that we were coming all the way from Shimla-Kaza. We were in mobile signal reach now. Got rooms booked in a Hotel in Manali online. After entering Manali, at the first Fuel Station, we got the fuel tank full, last time we took fuel was in Kaza 3 days back. It was around 1730 Hrs we checked into out hotel, it was a frustrating route we had travelled. The Manali was well organised and less chaotic than Shimla. After checking in, it was time to explore Manali, although it was getting dark now. I along with Deepak and Haldhar went to Mall Road, Ratnesh stayed in the Hotel. The plan was to dine in Hotel only after we return. It was around 1830 Hrs when we left for Mall Road. We had chai there, then did some shopping there only with full-too bargain. We got some good deals in Sleeping bags, shawls, hats, etc. Thereafter, it was decided to have some snacks in Sher-E-Punjab Restaurant there, but while ordering, it was decided to dine here only. Ratnesh was called to asked to get ready while I and Deepak shall pick him up from Hotel. Haldhar stayed in Restaurant to keep the place reserved, and while doing that, he did some dining by himself. After about 40-45 mins, we were back and had a proper dinner there. After this, we went back to the hotel and slept. A day from 4500 Mtrs altitude to 2300 Mtrs altitude and 120 Kms in 10 Hours. One hell of a day!
Day 10: Manali to Kasol (or Manikaran!!) Monday 2nd July 2018.
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| Hidimba Devi Temple, Manali |
It was a good hotel with great amenities, we had a good sleep. We checked out by 1100 Hrs. Visited Hidimba Devi temple there, we also visited “Gatottakachcha” & “Katu Shyam ji” aka Barbarik Temples in the area. After learning some history there, we left for Solang Valley. Although when we got there, it was all cloudy and the visibility was nil. So we though of returning, retraced some route there and left for Kasol. The plan was to stay in Kasol and see some action there since it was last day for Haldhar. Kasol is some 90 Kms from the Solang Valley, and a time distance of 4 Hours. Till Hathithan, we were driving by Beas River and by Parvati River after it. The road was closed after Kullu due to some repair work, and it took 30 mins for it to open. We had left Solang Valley at around 1400 Hrs and after a snacks break reached Kasol at 1830 Hrs. While searching for a nice hotel, we actually reached Manikaran which is just 3-4 Kms from Kasol. We found a nice hotel there, called “Shivalik Hotel”. There was a Gurudwara Shri Manikaran Sahib, we thought of going there but the plan to go there got postponed till next day morning.
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| That's "MAAL", by Beas River |
It is mandatory to mention that after Kullu, road were flooded with a special kind of “jhaad” called “Marijuana”. The roads were even smelling like it. Anyway, after checking in to the hotel, we had some chai, and dinner later. Haldhar was to return back to Delhi next day, so his ticket to Delhi was to be arranged, we made some queries and we learned that bus frequency is very less, and a state bus shall leave for Delhi next day at 1200 Hrs. We also walked over to the Manikaran Bus Stand, it was just 100 Mts from the hotel. And it was right by the river Parvati. The whole surrounding was under the loud influence of the River Parvati. The flow was extreme, we had never ever witnessed that kind of flow. It was enormous and loud. Nothing that came into its way could survive. After admiring it for some time, we got back to the Hotel and watched Football match.
Day 11: Manikaran to Dharamshala (Beautiful road) Tuesday 3rd July 2018.
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| Shri Manikaran Sahib |
Previous day we had not travelled far, the weather was supportive, road was supportive. We felt refreshed in the morning. The plan was to get the darshan in the Gurudwara first. Although, since Haldhar had to leave, we had breakfast first- a lot of poori sabzi. Thereafter, we went to the Gurudwara. The Gurudwara was on the opposite side of the River, a small-permanent bridge was there for pedestrians. We crossed the river, that led us right into the Gurudwara. We went inside, the people were extremely polite, they guided us the say. People were ever bathing in the Gurudwara Kund. We already had had our bath, so we wen straight for Darshan. It was crowded but not at all chaotic, everything was systemised and it took us merely 10-15 mins for everything. We came back to the hotel, and then went to the Bus Stand, there was some time for Bus to leave so I and Deepak came back to hotel, did our check out formalities, the remaining payments etc. It was drizzling there.
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| Mandi-Dharamsala Road |
We went back to the bus stand on foot, by that time, a bus was standing there and it was decided that it shall go to Delhi. The passengers starting boarding, Haldhar also went on and took his seat. After bidding him goodbye, we went back to Hotel, set our belongings in the car, and started driving back. Dharmshala was far by some 225 Kms and time distance was around 7 Hours. We started at 1200 Hrs from Manikaran, we had not crossed even 10 Kms and the road was closed due to some accident taken place at the blind turn. Somehow, with the help of Police, the traffic was moved, we started again with delay of around 30 mins. The plan was to have lunch at Mandi that was about 110 Kms from Manikaran, and it took us around 4 Hrs to reach there. by the time we reached there, it was already 1630 Hrs. So we just had sandwiches and tea. Thereafter, took the shortest route to Dharmsala. It was full of greenery, the road was alright, we were making an average of 40 Kmph.
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| Baijnath Mandir |
One of the most beautiful roads we drove on. 75 Kms from Mandi is Shri Baijnath, we made a halt for Darshan there. The Mandir was beautiful in itself and the surrounding was no less. 15 Mins and we were back on road. Dharmshala was 55 Kms now, and it was getting dark. Anyway, the road was supporting us by way of traffic and its condition. On the way, we booked an OYO Apartment for 3 people, and reached there by 2000 Hrs. This apartment was 8 Kms before Dharamshala. Although this was second OYO on our trip after Shimla, it was again the same story. It got impossible finding the apartment, the owners didn’t even know about the booking, we had to talk to OYO for like 30 Mins, and even after that the confusion remained. We insisted for cancellation of the booking and booked another hotel (Hotel Pong View) closer to Dharmshala.
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| That's Dharamsala |
It got another 15 mins to reach that hotel. That hotel was nice, with a nice spectacular view (that we witnessed next morning). After checking in, we went to the Dominos, that was walking distance from the hotel, still we went by car- just in case. It was open, we dined and went back. It was a long day considering the distance we had travelled. My Mama Ji was posted there in Dharmshala some time back, he told us some must visit places in Dharmshala. We had a limited day next day and the pact of not driving during night was still on. We were out of spiti and were travelling long now in day time, so visiting and driving altogether in a day was not possible now. Anyway, it was a day, all were tired.
Day 12: In-Dharamshala (Quite a place) Wednesday 4th July 2018.
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| View from the Window of our Room. |
Smaller is the travelling group, greater is the mobility. We were just three now with a few belongings and a hatchback. So far everything was fine. Hitherto, the only thing that had gone wrong was we lost a termo-flask of my partner. Rest everything was on track. So, we got up by 0900 Hrs I think. The view from the Balcony was beautiful. The plain in the south was shining in the sunlight, all of sudden it got surrounded by clouds, we were watching it all from above. Time Lapse was fun! We had to cover Dharmshala, the plan was if things are covered this day, we shall leave for Amritsar in the evening, and book a hotel on our way. So, we left for Dharmshala darshan. Breakfast was first, that we had at the open view restaurant (Dana Pani Pure Vegetarian Dhaba). We were still driving on hill, after breakfast we reached Bhagsunag Temple at 1200 Hrs, the parking was impossible, after some searching, we found a paid spot. Well! After Darshan, we left for Bhagsu Falls. After 7 days in Spiti, we were feeling like we were in a very crowded place. The fall, not very high, yet beautiful, it was at 800 Mtrs trek (by steps) from Bhagsunag Temple. People were everywhere, and some very sophisticated people who believed it to be their personal property were also present. People should be careful what they eat and how they eat at such places, the canteens at such places should also make sure that people do not throw waste, especially plastic wrappers just anywhere. Children should be taught to be decent enough to handle their crap. A child littering waste is apparently considered cute. It was irritating, we talked to some people not to litter the place. As told, the place was crowded, we left within 10 mins. Went back to the parking, drove to the Tsuglagkhang Complex Dalai Lama Temple, that was just 15 mins from the Bhagsunaag Temple. This place was calm, and had its own vibrations. It took us about an hour and a half to explore it.
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| View from Sunset Point, Naddi Hills, Dharamsala. |
Left the place by 1600 Hrs for Naddi Hill View Point/Sunset View Point, luckily, it was all connected by road. So we drove there, got a nice parking spot. Walked to the spot, but it was all cloudy and the view was nowhere. We waited for some time then started walking towards the end of the road hoping to find a cliff or something with a view. We got lost and by mistake, entered a Yoga and Meditation centre. A representative took us into a separate room and took a class of approx. 30 Mins. We got some brochures and a request to visit their centre in Mumbai. We somehow, made it back to the car parking. We were getting hungry now, so while driving back to the hotel, we had snacks at the same Dana Pani Restaurant. By 1900 Hrs, we were back at hotel. We came to a consensus that we should leave Dharmshala next morning, se we renewed our booking till next day. And that was all for Dharmshala. We missed some places, that we believe we shall cover next time (idea to visit Mandi and Dharamshala separately is in inception). Next day we had to leave for Amritsar, Golden Temple and Attari Border- We were excited! That’s it for 4th of July.
Day 13: Dharamshala to Amritsar (The Golden Temple) Thursday 5th July 2018.
We had to catch the evening view of the Golden Temple. We wrapped our belongings, checked out. We again had breakfast at the same place, it was cheap, fast and served what we needed, and left at around 1100 Hrs for Amritsar directly. Golden Temple was 200 Kms from our hotel, google maps was showing 4 Hrs of journey- it meant the road & traffic condition was fine. Route that we took was through Pathankot and Gurdaspur. Before reaching Pathankot (Burpur, Himachal Pradhesh) at Punjab-Himachal border, we had left the hilly areas and driving in plains now. 140 Kms were yet to go, meanwhile Deepak booked a hotel nearby the Golden Temple. Car parking was not available there, but they assured that car can be parked in the Temple parking for the night. We were on NH-54 Toll Road now. We reached Amritsar by 1630 Hrs, it took us 15-20 mins to park and reach Hotel. Had some snacks and chai in Hotel only.
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| Golden Temple, Amritsar |
Left for exploring localities at around 1730 Hrs, bought saafa, and had chat/lassi in local market. Entered the temple at 1900 Hrs, sat there for around an hour. The temple was extremely beautiful. The temple itself and its reflection in the kund was sightful and cannot be explained in mere words. Parikrama and darshan was done by 2100 Hrs. Went to langar at 2130 Hrs, had prasad, then went outside, had ice cream etc. Went back to hotel and rested.
Day 14: Attari Border 9 (Bharat Mata ki Jai) Friday 6th July 2018.
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| Shahidi Kuan, Amritsar |
It was first ever in this trip that we had slept in AC. Woke up by 1000 Hrs. We again went to Temple by 1130 to admire the day beauty, sat there for sometime, the weather was warm as compared to the places we have been to in last few days. After that, we went to Jalianwala Bagh that was at walking distance from the temple. We visited the place, bought a book. The bullet marks are still there on the walls distinctly marked, the shaheedi kuan is still there. I wonder how people take selfies at such places. There is something wrong with the history that is taught to us I think.
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| Bullet Marks, Jalianwala Bagh, Amritsar |
Well, we were hungry by then. Went outside, and chhole kulche was in demand now. We tried Amritsari Kulche nearby, buttery Kulchas were served, and even 1 each was enough. Lassi after that was a done deal for the day. After that, we left for Attari Border, for the evening program and flag hosting. We again fueled up while leaving Amritsar. Attari was about 35 Kms from Amritsar. The Indian Flag was visible from kms. We reached there by 1600 Hrs. The security was at its peak, and the parking etc arrangement was awesome! After parking there were different lines for security check. Cameras and binocular were allowed. Other, specific items were prohibited there. It was hot there, temperature was more than 40 Celsius at that time. Sunset was nowhere near, and we were all sweating. After security, we went to the arena type place, a wide seating arrangement was there.More than 10,000 people could be accommodated there.
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| BSF, at Attari Border |
I think more than 4 thousand people were present that day. Lahore was just 23 Kms and some paperwork away from there, infact Pakistan was just 50 feet away from us! My mobile was showing services from Pakistani Carriers. Anyway, Pakistani side was all empty by that time, it took around one hour to settle things down at our end and still people kept coming. The Border Security Forces (BSF) officers were taking care of the arrangement by themselves. Commandos in their gear, and very well suited BSF soldiers were seen there. Mumbling of the public was silenced, and a loud cheer was heard when the host took the mike and rejoiced “Bharat Mata ki Jai”. The atmosphere changed, and slogans like, “Bharat Mata ki Jai’, “Inqualaab Zindabad” & “Vande Mataram” took over the crowd. In a while, deshbhakti songs started and we were more heated inside than outside. The crowd started enjoying that moment. The host was making gesture that was energising the crowd even more. The Good thing we observed that day was the ladies were called in the centre and asked to enjoy the songs, in addition, during the march our BSF Lady Officers were put in front row symbolising Women Empowerment. It was a day dedicated to women. The ladies were given Indian flag and march in line, it was beautiful. An old age person (70+) somehow made it into ladies crowed and he also made the marching show, although he was guided to his seat by a BSF Officer. After a while, people at Pakistan’s side also started taking place at that side.
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| Flag Lowering Ceremony |
They were not more than 1 thousand I guess, and a kid was hosting the show at their side. Announcement was made that a sprint runner who was coming to Attari Border all the way from Kanyakumari on foot. Once he got there, the CO honoured him, where a speech was made. After that, flag lowering ceremony started. We had seen it before on television only, this was live with a wider view and load full of energy. It went on for 30 minutes, and the program was concluded. And yes, we had an idea, since 4-5 thousand people will leave that place, we shall get stuck in the traffic. So we made hast, and left as early as we could. It was 1900 Hrs already, the next stop Chandigarh was about 260 Kms/4 and half hours away. Deepak booked a hotel in Chandigarh. This day, we broke the pact of not driving at night after Shimla. The road was nice and we were hoping an average of 60-70 Kmph. We bypassed the Amritsar had dinner in McD while bypassing Jalandhar there. Right after we left McD, we were changing from Service Lane to Main Road, we saw a swift- its of the front tyres was stuck in a sever line and the diagonally opposite tyre was hanging and the car was standing on just two wheels. We stopped there to assist, other people also gathered in a couple of minutes. 4-5 of us pulled the car back. Well, it was about 2200 then, and we were yet to go 150 Kms. We reached the hotel by 1230 Hrs in night. It was a happening hot day. Next was Delhi.
Day 15: New Delhi (It’s all chaotic again) Saturday 7th July 2018
We got up at around 0930 Hrs and after breakfast. We left for Delhi at 1300 Hrs. Aerocity, New Delhi was about 275 Kms/ 5 Hours from there. We had a heavy breakfast, and were full to go. Although, on a friend’s recommendation, we stopped in Murthal/Sonipat for lunch by 1600 Hrs. Again after lunch and fuelling up, we left, although “ab Dilli door nahin thi”, time distance and traffic was still an issue. It was evening, although, Saturday made us skip at least half of office traffic that day. Made some silly wrong turns and U-Turns adding 5-6 Kms to the trip. We reached hotel by 1800 Hrs. We had plans to see “Sanju” movie with a college friend Anu (IIT-D). After watching the movie, handed over the car, and went back to the hotel, next day packed and returned back to Mumbai.
Talking about the budget, following is the list of expenditures that we did (for all 4 of us, Ex-Delhi):
1. Zoomcar - Rs. 38000/- for 15 days and about 2800 kms run.
2. On snacks, approx. Rs. 20,000/- (No liquor)
3. Stay approx. 32,500/-.
Stay, Eating and Commutation: Above digits are what we spent, expenditure on foods should vary as per fooding and drinking habits. Stay expenses can vary as per the choice of stay. Home stay is available in most of the places in Spiti which are cozy and less expensive. Commutation, if done from Bus can reduce the cost to bits, but will become very inconvenient since, the frequency of Bus there is very less.
Points to remember (Do's and Don'ts):
1. Prepare a proper list of items to carry, like medicines, rope, warm cloths, car air pump, etc.
2. Download Google maps of the whole area.
3. At higher altitude, regular intake of Water and Glucose (Diamox in Emergency Cases).
4. Must not driving during night.
5. After dark, do no roam free (alone), always ask locals if planning to do so.
6. Booking Zostel in Chitkul and Monastery in Kaza in advance is advisable.
7. Chandrataal Booking should be done at least 2 days in advance.
8. If self driving, no sedan, Cars with higher clearance are recommended (Cars with goods torque also recommended).
9. No taking baths in Lakes or River there.
10. Keeping the fuel tank of vehicle full whenever possible (When we travelled, Petrol Pump after Shimla was in Kaza).
11. Take what Locals are advising seriously.
12. Driving with discipline and proper manner (Ascending vehicles always have right of the way).
13. Do not drive on guess, drive only when you are sure you can drive through, no taking chances on road.
14. 70%-75% of the budget should be carried in form of cash, cards and online payment is available at only a few locations.
It was then, when we finally entered a valley. We were driving by Sutlej River, it was beautiful but hot (38 Degree Celsius). We couldn’t resist and made a halt by the river at 1600 Hrs. Sat there for like 30-40 mins and then resumed the journey, we crossed Rampur at 1730 Hrs and were almost there at Sarahan by 1900 Hrs when we found that the bridge has collapsed/being renovated and we may have to go around the mountain adding 17 kms drive. We noticed that car could not cross the bridge but we could and people were commuting by Bolero/Sumo from the other side of the bridge to Sarahan, it was just 6 Kms from there, the sky was clearer now, but it was getting dark. So we made a decision that for that night, we shall park the car by the bridge only (Other cars and buses were parked there as well) and commute by whatever is available at the other side. We shared a Bolero, to the lodge we had booked (Krishna Lodge). Anyway, we dined well there and thought of going for a walk, it was dark. My friends had “desi chicken” and were overwhelmed by the hospitality of the lodge. We thought of going out for walk, and were at 50 Mtrs from the lodge when we asked a shopper the way to “Bhimakali Mandir”. She warned saying ’Bhaalu (Bear) aayega Bhaalu”. We instantly returned to the lodged and rather sat on the terrance for like an hour. We decided that we shall visit the temple in the morning.
